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Use our design gallery to map out desired beam layout. Remember to make note of obstacles on ceiling such as vents, recessed lighting, or fire sprinklers.

Measure all dimensions of the room that beams are being installed. NOTE: Measure room before deciding which beams to install. Each beam comes in a specific length so it can be beneficial to know how long of a span it needs to cover.
Decide which style, diameter, and color of beam you would like to install. Calculate how many beams it will take to fulfill you favorite design layout. Keep in mind that a strap can be used to connect two beams if the span of the room is too great.

Measure layout of beams onto your ceiling and use a chalk line to mark the centerline of beams on the ceiling. Using a stud finder locate rafter studs in the ceiling that may run across or along chalk lines. If studs do not intersect centerlines continue on to next step.

Cut blocking to fit the interior dimension of beam. Blocking should be at least 1 ˝” thick and the width should fit loosely into center of beams at the top edge. Draw Centerline down all blocking for purposes of lining up with chalk lines. Drill pilot hole into blocking along centerlines. At least 2 Pilot holes per block and at least ˝” to 2/3” of beam should be supported by blocking.

Installing blocking by lining up centerline on blocking and chalk lines made on ceiling. If studs have been marked, line up pilot hole with studs and insert screws, If studs were not marked thread all screws into blocking so that tip of screw protrudes about Ľ” to ˝”. Align blocking and push screws through ceiling material to mark mounting point and remove blocking. Insert appropriate wall anchor that is rated to support weight of beam. Realign blocking with screws matching up with anchors and install all blocking.

Mark all edges of blocking with blue masking tape about 2”-3” to the side of blocking on ceiling. This is to mark where the blocking is located after the beam is in place.

Measure the span that the beam is to cover. Take this measurement from the ceiling itself, not the ground. When using a tape measure be sure to take into account the run out from the bend in the tape at a 90° angle. When you have figured out the length we recommend adding 1/16” to create a snug fit. Fitting a snug beam results in less gaps at the walls. Warning Paint and surface of wall can be damaged if beam is fit snug, tapping of beam into place using mallet is useful, but used at installers own risk. Tapping is useful, smacking will damage beam.

If you are installing a ridge beam with rafter beams running up to it, the ridge beam must be installed before rafter beams can be measured. When Measuring Rafter beams, place the end of the tape measure into the corner seam where the bottom end of the beam will be. Take the measurement at the top where the beam will meet up with the ridge beam. Again take into account the run out of the tape measure but this time add 1/8” for a snug fit. Before cutting the beams check the angle where the wall meets the ceiling using a square or angle finder. Many walls are at 88°or 92° so you want to match that angle on your beam.

As the wise man once said, measure twice, cut once!

Cutting the beam is similar to working with wood but easier. Take your measurement from the ceiling and mark it onto your beam. Make sure to mark the top edge of the beam that will be in contact with the ceiling. If you need to add an angle for the walls it should increase or decrease the length of the bottom edge of the beam only. The measurement of the top edge of the beam, should not change no matter what angles are add.

Placement of beams. It is recommended to raise the beam into place for a test fit. For finial fit a thin bead of construction adhesive is optional along top edge of beam. For snug fitting beams, the beam will stick before falling into place. Align beam across centerline of blocking from left to right about two inches below blocking. Gently tap beam into place, if it takes more than a tap, the beam is too long and must be adjusted to fit. For minor adjustments a sure form (small hand plainer), sandpaper or razor blade will work well.

Securing beam to blocking. Use a finishing nail gun with 2”- 2 1/2” nails or flat countersink screws preferably black. Nails should be every 5”-6” apart, and screws should be 8”-10” apart. Noting placement of blue tape markers for locations of blocking underneath beam. If necessary fill screw holes or paint to cover any visible fasteners.